As someone who lives right in the middle of England, witnessing the sunrise over the sea from my window is an infrequent pleasure.
But this was precisely the view I enjoyed on a bright autumn morning during my stay in this tiny port village, as I observed early risers walking their dogs and open water swimmers flocking to the harbour.
Situated south of St Austell, Cornwall, one could easily mistake Charlestown for a cinematic backdrop. Indeed, the Grade II-listed harbour has served as a film set over the years, most notably for BBC‘s Poldark, but also featuring in Tim Burton’s 2010 rendition of Alice in Wonderland and Dr Who.
Once a thriving port used for exporting copper and China clay, Charlestown is the ideal location for those wishing to trace the steps of ancient mariners. Brimming with vibrant fishermen’s cottages, pubs and restaurants, as well as a host of independent shops, there’s ample to discover – you might even catch sight of a celebrity or two.
And right at the heart of all the activity, you’ll find Pier House. Recently reopened, this sage green establishment sits directly on the historic harbour, offering unrivalled views across the sea regardless of the weather, making it the perfect accommodation choice.
After parking at the Rashleigh Arms down the road, we checked into our superior sea view room and were captivated by its calming green interior, straight out of a Pinterest board, and luxurious super-king bed. The four types of rooms available are all finished with touches that make it feel like a better version of home – think Roberts radios, Elemis toiletries and dry robes (for those daring enough to take a sea dip).
Our room offered a stunning view of the harbour, providing us with hours of entertainment as we watched the waves roll in from our cosy viewing area, binoculars at the ready.
During our stay, we even had the privilege of witnessing a film crew in action, prompting us to head down to Pier House’s sea-facing bar and sun-trap terrace for a closer look.
As a pub conversion by the family-owned St Austell Brewery, it was only fitting that we toasted the occasion with a pint of Tribute.
While Tribute may be a staple at the bar, the food is equally impressive. For dinner, we indulged in Newlyn-landed haddock, crushed minted peas and chunky chips, which gave us that ultimate ‘holiday’ feeling and started our trip off on a high note as we gazed out to sea.
On day two, the pea and shallot ravioli provided a refreshing pick-me-up. And the breakfasts are just as delightful – imagine loaded pancakes, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon, and hearty full English breakfasts catering to meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans alike.
But don’t be deceived by Charlestown’s charming facade – there’s a wealth of activities to dive into. Whether it’s savouring a pizza at Harbour Beer House, indulging in some ice cream from Tallships Creamery, or perusing locally crafted ceramics at The Craft Kiln at The Old Workshop, you’re guaranteed to depart with a satisfied palate and a bag brimming with keepsakes.
A visit to St Austell Brewery, just a brief 10-minute drive from Charlestown, is an absolute must-do, regardless of whether you’re a beer enthusiast or not. The sheer enthusiasm of the tour guides and the opportunity to learn about the beer-making process make it worthwhile. You can even channel your inner Peggy Mitchell and pull your own pint during the post-tour tasting session!
And if that wasn’t enough, no journey to this region would be complete without a visit to The Eden Project to marvel at its Rainforest and Mediterranean Biomes. Now that’s a staycation to write home about!
Rooms at Pier House start from £175 per night on a bed and breakfast basis, based on two sharing a classic double room.
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