Slovak Tatra towns seek greater autonomy to boost tourism

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When we reach Tatranská Javorina, tracing the road from Ždiar, a stretch of asphalt under repair greets us. It’s a modest sign of change occurring in Slovakia’s north, but in a town often overlooked, even a road repair feels like a big change in the town nestled in the Tatra Mountains.

Tatranská Javorina and the Belianske Tatry mountains are hidden gems, though long overlooked. Development in this secluded village, however, has been slow. Most of the land here falls under the stewardship of the Tatra National Park (TANAP), limiting both infrastructure and services.

“The primary constraint on development is conservation policy, which often obstructs local entrepreneurs and investors,” says Miroslav Michaľák, the village mayor. With its unique natural setting and prime location near the Polish border, the area holds vast potential. “Tourism is a vital income source, yet for growth to occur, we need more flexibility around land use,” Michaľák adds.

Tatranská Javorina remains tangled in a prolonged debate over TANAP zoning, now unresolved for over 20 years. The village sits under third-level protection, with areas designated as fourth and fifth levels—near the strict protections afforded to Gerlachovský štít, Slovakia’s highest peak.

“Protection here is treated like that of Gerlachovský štít,” notes the mayor, underscoring the challenges this creates for local growth.

Five years ago, a former mayor expressed hope that easing these protections might allow young residents to build homes or guest houses. Plans included permitting the purchase of state-owned land within the village limits, but little has since changed.

Today, the village counts just 176 permanent residents. There are a handful of apartments and private accommodations, alongside about ten cottages, some owned by Polish nationals.

Look at Poland

Michaľák notes that tourism on the Polish side of the Tatras is developing more dynamically while still respecting nature, citing well-developed cycling routes, modern ski resorts, and quality wellness services.

He points out that Polish municipalities enjoy greater land use autonomy, allowing for faster development. In contrast, Tatranská Javorina has limited land available for development, contributing to its decline. “The potential for revenue from parking fees for Polish visitors is near zero,” he states, as up to 500 cars are illegally parked during peak season.

Visitors from Poland park on state land and charge for their shuttle service since there is no direct bus from Štrbské pleso to Tatranská Javorina.

“The Poles hike through the Tatras to Štrbské pleso with no return path,” the mayor explains the logistical challenges. They operate a minibus, charging €50 per trip. Once filled with 10 passengers, they earn €500.

“In our country, the Poles profit while we see nothing,” the mayor laments. He notes one Pole who rented a former customs office at the border and is now collecting parking fees.

The Poles are also building two guesthouses but will primarily employ fellow Poles. “They bought large buildings for hundreds of thousands of euros, needing to invest millions more. Locals cannot afford such investments,” the mayor adds.

The disparity is evident in nearby Bialka Tatrzańska, Poland, which has seen significant development in the last decade. “We prefer educational trails and rest areas over mass tourism. We don’t want to become a second Demänovská dolina (a popular Slovak valley notorious for a construction boom – ed.),” he concludes, referring to the construction boom in the Low Tatras.

Ždiar flourishes

In contrast, Ždiar, located within the third protection zone, is undergoing substantial development, marked by construction and renovations, with local entrepreneurs optimistic about continued growth. The village has access to more private and municipal land, enabling it to secure essential subsidies.

Michaľák notes minimal cooperation between Tatranská Javorina and its more prosperous neighbour. “There is a lack of strategy to unite these municipalities and create shared tourist routes or events,” he explains. Consequently, while Ždiar is capitalising on its tourism potential, Tatranská Javorina remains overlooked.

According to Michaľák, a crucial step for future tourism development in the village is addressing land managed by TANAP. He proposes a model where the national park retains control over sensitive areas while granting access to less vulnerable parts for municipal development.

“If we had greater control over our territory, we could better improve infrastructure for tourists,” the mayor explains. He highlights the need for stronger collaboration with regional and national authorities, as well as with local entrepreneurs.

This approach could lead to joint projects that balance nature conservation with tourism, such as eco-friendly accommodations, cycling routes, and hiking trails, ensuring tourism does not damage the ecosystem.

Inspiration from Austria

In Ždiar, the main attraction for tourists is Bachledova dolina, where, besides the ski slopes and a cable car, there’s a treetop walkway. The Strachan family has been actively running a business here for 25 years. They own the luxurious Grand Hotel Bachledka Strachan in the valley.

This family enterprise began as a small boarding house. Today, in addition to the hotel, they operate a ski resort in Bachledova dolina and recently acquired another one at the opposite end of Ždiar—Strednica, where they also built a guesthouse on a green meadow nearby.

“We want to transform Strednica into a large ski resort with accommodation and extensive services,” explains Jaroslav Strachan, highlighting its excellent location with views of the entire Belianske Tatras.

The Strachans travelled abroad for inspiration in the tourism industry, exploring not only Austria but also Switzerland and Italy, where they often went with their three daughters, who were professional skiers.

“In Austria, we saw how business could be managed locally; it caught our interest, and that’s why we renovated the Grand Hotel Bachledka with respect for mountain traditions and wooden architecture,” says Strachan.

They chose not to replicate Tyrolean architecture in Ždiar. Instead, they drew inspiration from the renowned Slovak architect Dušan Jurkovič, who built many chalets in the High Tatras.

The Strachan daughters are expected to pursue the family business. Zuzana, the youngest, attends a bilingual gymnasium and is set to enrol in a hotel school in Crans-Montana, Switzerland. Katarína, the middle daughter, is a graduate of a hotel academy in Prešov, eastern Slovakia, and plans to study tourism at a university in Bratislava. Silvia, the eldest, is pursuing molecular biology in Australia.

During the summer holidays, the daughters are involved in the family business.

“They are already coming up with ideas on how to do things differently,” says Janka, Strachan’s wife.

Strachan explains that they have been taught from a young age to work hard and not simply rely on their status. “They have all worked as maids, helped in the kitchen, served as waitresses, and worked as ski instructors,” he adds.

The feeling of home

In recent years, tourism has shifted: visitors now prefer shorter stays of a few days or a long weekend, rather than week-long trips. “Rooms are often booked last minute; no one makes summer reservations in January,” explains Strachan’s wife. Weekend stays typically sell out by Wednesday.

“Nowadays, people are willing to stay for just one night—not necessarily to save money, but due to time constraints,” she adds. However, during holidays, visitors do tend to stay longer.

The Strachan family hosts companies for team-building events during the week outside of the summer season. “Tourists can spend a week in Ždiar because we have a lot to offer,” Strachan notes. The ratio of domestic to international guests in Ždiar is about 70 to 30 percent, with staff able to communicate in several languages.

The Strachans prioritise close contact with visitors and employees. In summer, they employ hundreds of workers, with this number doubling in winter. They provide dormitories for employees in Ždiar, eliminating commuting.

“We learned from Austria that providing housing and relaxation spaces for employees is important,” Strachan’s wife shares. Employees enjoy free access to skiing and the wellness centre, and they participate in alpine hikes to foster a love for the mountains.

A unique benefit for permanent staff is an annual multi-day trip abroad with the owners and their daughters. Past trips have included London and Rome, with Barcelona planned next.

Home found in the Tatras

Natália Bokníková is originally from Bratislava but fell in love with the mountains, which prompted her to move to the High Tatras ten years ago. Together with two friends, she founded the café and teahouse U Vlka in Starý Smokovec.

Although the businesswomen were newcomers to the Tatras region, they quickly gained favour with the local community through their involvement in cultural activities. In addition to the tea room, they organise book readings and film screenings.

Two years after opening their business, they expanded to include a tea shop, where customers can find high-quality teas, tea sets, herbs, and various other souvenirs. Most of these items are handmade by local artisans. Bokníková and her business partners also organise local craft markets, which initially took place seasonally but are now held every weekend.

Bokníková considers the lack of adequate parking to be the biggest issue in the Tatras. The city attempted to address its insufficient parking capacity by introducing shuttle services, but this solution was not effective, as tourists prefer to drive as close to the mountains as possible.

Looking ahead, Bokníková plans to organise more cultural activities. She envisions a form of soft tourism in the Tatras, contrasting with the commercialised, Disneyland-like attractions that have developed on the Polish side of the Tatras, in Zakopane.

Museum of mountain porters

Štefan Bačkor is a long-time mountain porter who has taken on a new venture alongside his regular work. For the past decade, he has been running a café in the historic Swiss House in Starý Smokovec. He also operates a private museum dedicated to mountain porters in this charming building, which is recognised as a cultural monument.

Bačkor ended up running his café by chance, but the idea of creating a gathering space for the mountain porter community had been on his mind for some time. The town had been unable to find a use for this space for an extended period, eventually putting it up for rent.

“We quickly submitted a project proposal and won the opportunity,” he recalls.

Since then, he has poured all available resources, sometimes even at the expense of his family, into the café’s renovation. The last major repair involved a complete replacement of the electric wiring, which had been in a state of emergency.

“If we hadn’t done it, the technicians told us that the risk of fire was huge,” Bačkor adds.

During the off-season, he manages the café solely with his wife, but in the summer they also hire part-time staff. He notes that this season has been relatively weak, despite the warm weather. While Poles continue to flock to the Tatras, Slovakia is becoming increasingly expensive for Czechs, who are saving and spending less than before.

“In the past, they would typically have five beers and two portions of goulash at a mountain hut; now, they opt for three beers and one goulash,” he explains. According to him, the Polish Tatras remain cheaper, and as long as Poles don’t switch to the euro, they likely will stay that way.

We don’t want to end up like Zakopane

Like Bokníková, he criticises mass tourism on the Polish side of the Tatras.

“Even some tourism experts from Poland have told me that Zakopane is spoiled in terms of urban planning for a mountain town. On the other hand, in areas like restoring sports complexes, they have outpaced us, and we could take a cue from Zakopane,” says the mountain porter and entrepreneur.

He acknowledges that the Poles are thriving in business terms since there is no off-season, but he wouldn’t want such mass tourism in the Tatras.

“I’d rather spread it out over the off-season. This is also up to us locals—to create an attractive offer for people in months like November and May,” Bačkor says. During Christmas and the summer season, traffic congestion in the Tatras becomes overwhelming, and parking lots struggle to accommodate the influx of tourists.

“We live in paradise, and tourism can be managed in various ways, but we must choose the right approach,” he adds, expressing his discontent with the large apartment buildings sprouting up in the Tatras like mushrooms after rain.

Looking ahead, he plans to expand the museum of mountain porters by incorporating modern technology, including holographic projections.

“I appreciate the contrast of smart technologies within a historic house.”