While we hadn’t really pondered it in advance, jetting off to an island two days after the November election ended up being a double win: we escaped both the cooling temperatures and the 24-7 news cycle, turning off our brains for a few days. To me, that’s what a Caribbean getaway is all about anyway: forgetting about your day-to-day life, while relaxing in the sun and floating in a turquoise sea.
For this autumn getaway, we knew we wanted someplace warm, relaxing and very sunny. We settled for what has long been a favorite Caribbean destination: the Bahamas’ New Providence Island, home of the country’s capital city, Nassau.
New Providence island– or “Nassau” as it is commonly known — is a small place, only 20 miles long and seven miles wide. But it is the most dynamic and busy of the 700 coral islands that the Commonwealth of the Bahamas claims as its own. In fact, about 228,000 people – two-thirds of the Bahamas’ population – live in and around Nassau.
It is also the most popular Bahamas destination, for good reason: there is something for every age group and interest. With water sports, gorgeous coral sand beaches, casinos, historical sights and shopping, Nassau (and nearby Paradise Island) offers the ideal tropical vacation. Plus, it’s quick and easy to get to from New Jersey (less than three hours via a non-stop flight), making it perfect for our three-night vacation.
Tourism has been a big business in the Bahamas since the 1950s, and the numbers of visitors has been growing steadily since the end of the pandemic. Nassau, in fact, drew about 4.4 million visitors last year alone, up 36 percent compared to 2022. For our stay, we’d opted for someplace old – but also new: the British Colonial, which offers a level of glamour not found in the newer resorts – along with a lot of fascinating history.
The newly renovated and reopened British Colonial blends 1920s elegance with modern-day amenities. Photo courtesy of the British Colonial.Photo courtesy of the British Colonial
Originally opened in 1901 by Harry Flager – the same person who built the Breakers in Palm Beach, Florida – the then-wooden structure (called the New Colonial) was destroyed in a 1922 fire. A new seven-story hotel at the same location opened in 1923. In 1932, the luxurious hotel was purchased by entrepreneur Sir Harry Oakes, who renamed it the British Colonial. A highly influential man, Oakes was murdered in 1943 in a scandalous crime that remains unsolved to this day.
A filming location for the 1983 James Bond Film, Never Say Never Again, the British Colonial changed hands several times between the early 1960s and the 2020s and was closed for nearly two years during the pandemic, when it was part of the Hilton chain.
Following a $50-million renovation, it reopened last December under independent ownership and much fanfare. With an array of tourist-friendly amenities, this gorgeous resort boasts 288 guest rooms and suites, seven food and beverage venues, a private beach, and two oceanfront swimming pools. And it’s within easy walking distance of several landmarks, including Nassau’s Cruise Port and the city’s Straw Market.
The grand lobby boasts a vaulted ceiling, columns, a dramatic center staircase, and large-scale murals. The rooms are large, and ours offered a great view of the harbor, where we often watched massive cruise ships arrive and depart each day. (The British Colonial also offers reasonably priced day passes to cruise-goers interested in chilling at its pool or lounging on its beach during their stop-over).
We weren’t particularly interested in wandering around downtown Nassau for meals, but we never had to really contemplate the possibility, as our hotel’s dining options were plentiful. For breakfast (and a Sunday brunch), there’s the charming Tamarind Market Place. We especially loved the open design that links together three of the most popular onsite eateries, just off the main lobby: the Woodes Rogers Tavern (which often has live entertainment at night); the fabulous, 1920′s inspired Italian restaurant, Mahogany Club, and the Sakana Noodle & Sushi Bar. We enjoyed an incredible Italian meal at the Mahogany Club then wandered over to have a cocktail at the Tavern without even a doorway to separate us.
While we could have easily spent our entire three days on the property – there was plenty to do, including a fire pit to relax by in the evenings – we did venture offsite to experience a few things. Here are some suggestions for things to do if you visit Nassau:
· Sail to Rose Island. About a 40-minute boat ride from downtown Nassau, this small uninhabited island is great for a day visit. Our $99 package to the Sand Dollar Resort there included a basic buffet lunch of burgers and chicken, along with plenty of lounge chairs and umbrellas. The highlight was frolic in the surf with adult and young native Bahamian pigs (technically wild boars). While not a particularly relaxing excursion – less than five hours from start to finish – it was certainly worth the price we paid. Another popular favorite for a side trip is Blue Lagoon Island. There you can enjoy an array of options, from simply relaxing on the beach, to interacting with dolphins and sting rays.
· Sample Native Rum. Check out the popular John Watling’s Distillery, the only rum produced in Nassau. Located at the famed Buena Vista Estate – another James Bond locale – visitors can enjoy a self-guided tour of the historic estate, and free rum samplings. Open every day from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
· Celebrate the holidays with Junkanoo. What Mardi Gras is to New Orleans, the Junkanoo Festival – held on December 26 and January 1 – is to the Bahamas. The streets of Nassau come alive with vibrant parades, featuring elaborate handmade costumes, as well as dramatic dancing and music.
The popular Straw Market has a lot of everything, including haggling with the vendors. Photo by Nicole PensieroPhoto by Nicole Pensiero
· Visit the Nassau Straw Market. This is a big business compared to the straw market I knew and loved during my early visits to Nassau in the 1980s. Rebuilt in 2011 after a fire, today’s straw market has everything from traditional woven straw purses to wooden carved collectables and clothing. And yes, you can still haggle with vendors who are also eager to strike a deal.
· Savor Nature. Nassau’s spacious Ardastra Gardens & Wildlife Conservation Center is a great way to get up close and personal with some of the Bahamas most beautiful birds and plants. Hand-feed playful parrots, meet Bahamian boa constrictors and watch the marching flamingos in action.
· Try Your Luck at a Casino. Casinos are still a big draw in Nassau, with Atlantis (on Paradise Island) and the newer Baha Mar (on Cable Beach) the big players. Baha Mar, in fact, has over1,100 slot machines alone! You can even gamble outside, at The Pavilion.
Nassau is a place where you can experience as much – or as little – as you want; for a small place, it’s big on variety.
For more information, visit www.bahamas.com or www.nassauparadiseisland.com.
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