“This was my fifth visit to Yemen,” David said. “I travel, of course, with a foreign passport and under an assumed identity because that’s the only way to get in and out of there alive. I return to Yemen again and again because I’ve always been curious about the mentality of the people there — on the one hand, there’s a lot of stubbornness and hardship, and on the other hand, so much optimism.”
“I recognize this mentality because I previously worked in Somalia and Djibouti in the Horn of Africa, and in almost all of these places, you encounter people with the same stubbornness, the same defiance, and an inexplicable sense of freedom. It’s a matter of culture and mentality that fascinates me”.
David, a medical administrator specializing in operating field hospitals, said he combined his professional mission with a week-long tour of Yemen.
“I wanted to see up close how they treat the many refugees arriving from northern Yemen, those who cross the border and try to survive,” he said. “Beyond that, Yemen is simply an extraordinary place. It’s not just what you see in the news—coups, wars, and political changes. It’s a country that has undergone fascinating upheavals. Think about it—communism, divisions, reunifications.”
There’s also architecture unlike anywhere else in the world, the unique traditional clothing with the dagger, and the history—everything is so unique. It’s a place where you feel as if you’ve entered the most remote backyard of the Arabian Peninsula.”
Staying there is an unforgettable experience. When you travel through such a country, you realize it’s beyond what words can describe. It’s a country with tough people, breathtaking landscapes, and a feeling as if you’ve traveled back in time to a completely different era.”
When David starts talking about Yemen, it’s hard to stop him. ‘It’s one of the poorest countries in the Arab League, but the experience is inspiring,’ he said. ‘It’s a fourth world. The people there live in extremely difficult conditions, and the dirt in the streets shows just how complex the situation is. And yet, we didn’t encounter hygiene issues in the areas where we lived and ate.'”
According to him, ‘In Yemen, everyone walks around with automatic weapons, and you have to get used to it, except for the coastal area, which is under Saudi control, where soldiers from the United Arab Emirates have collected many weapons from the residents.'”
Mysterious Yemen, located in the southern Arabian Peninsula, is a country saturated with internal conflicts and external geopolitical influences. The country is internally divided into tribes, sects, and regions with strong local control, which has made it difficult to form a unified national identity over the years.”
“In the south, a significant separatist movement, the Southern Transitional Council (STC), operates, aiming to re-establish the southern state that disbanded with the unification in 1990.”
“The eastern regions are mainly controlled by armed tribes and sometimes serve as a refuge for terrorist organizations like Al-Qaeda and the Islamic State. These divisions reflect not only political gaps but also Yemen’s rich cultural and ethnic diversity—richness that makes it fascinating and unique, yet almost inaccessible to travelers in the current era.”
“The last leg of my journey began at Sayun Airport, where I landed from Dubai,” David recounted. “Sayun, or as the locals now call it ‘Seyun,’ is a very interesting city. It has a lot of history, but it’s not a large or modern city as we’re used to. Even though they try to deny it, the ancient name of this city, ‘Zion,’ has an intriguing past. I landed there because it serves as a central gateway to the southern regions of Yemen. From there, I continued south toward the coast.”
“Sayun, a historic city in the Hadhramaut region of eastern Yemen, is famous for its impressive clay palaces, foremost among them the Sultan Al-Kathiri Palace. During the Islamic period, Sayun was an important religious and commercial center due to its location along trade routes. In modern times, it integrated into independent Yemen while maintaining its traditional and cultural character.”
“Today, it is known for its unique architecture, combining traditional elements of clay construction, and its regional airport, which serves limited flights, mainly to neighboring Gulf countries.”
“We passed through the small villages along the way; they look as if time has stopped there,” David recounted. “The houses are made of mud, adorned with beautiful wooden carvings, and the people live in great modesty. Along the way, we stopped several times to talk to the locals—they were always welcoming, despite the harsh conditions they live in.”
“From the coast, we continued towards Mukalla. This is a very special area, with stunning views of natural canyons and wadis. I remember in one of the valleys, we saw a small village with houses that blended perfectly into the landscape. It was like stepping into a postcard. The people there use traditional techniques to build and cultivate the land, and everything happens at a pace completely different from what we’re used to.”
“Eventually, the route led us to the humanitarian border, an area where refugees who fled northern Yemen due to wars and poverty now live. The camps there are very basic—tents, makeshift facilities, people trying to survive day by day. I spoke with families who told me about the difficult journey they endured to reach that place; it was deeply moving.”
“David emphasized that throughout the entire trip, he maintained a false identity. ‘It’s not an easy place to reach, certainly not for an Israeli. I had to move carefully, but that also contributed to the experience,’ he said. ‘It gave me the opportunity to delve deep into things and see the situation through the eyes of the locals.'”
What do you eat on a trip to Yemen, Jachnun?
“I ate a lot of camel meat; it has a unique taste, somewhat like beef but richer and healthier. If they hadn’t told me it was camel, I would have thought it was premium beef. The Malawach was amazing — crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with a slightly salty and special flavor. Maybe that’s why it’s called Malawach because originally, it was salty.
“The Kubaneh was also very tasty, but I looked for Jachnun and couldn’t find it. Apparently, it’s not common in the regions where I traveled.”
How was the authentic Yemeni Zhug?
“It was spicy to levels I’ve never experienced before—my tongue almost caught fire. It’s an experience for those willing to face the intensity of the flavors. The food in Yemen is delicious, and it’s an integral part of the locals’ culture and daily life.”
The journey also included a brush with Yemen’s Jewish history. David happened to pass by a small village
famous among Yemenite Jewish immigrants. “I passed by the village of Shar’a,” he said. “The locals still call it by different names—’Shar’a’ or ‘Shar’abi’—but it’s clear to everyone that the roots of the village are Jewish. It was moving to know I was standing in a place from which so many Jewish families made their way to Israel.”
“The famous village, where Rabbi Shalom Sharabi, the great Yemenite Kabbalist considered one of the central figures in Kabbalah, was born, looks like an authentic picture from the past.
“The houses are made of mud, standing close together, just like in ancient times, giving the village a picturesque and antique appearance. But when you look closely, you realize that everything has been renovated over the years. Walls received new layers of plaster, and the signs that were characteristic of Jewish homes, like mezuzahs or carvings, have disappeared.'”
“Because I was traveling under a false identity in a country extremely dangerous for Israelis, I was careful not to show any interest in the village to avoid arousing suspicion. It’s incredible to think that from this village came people who continued their lives in Israel, but also sad to see how the physical roots of Jewish culture have been erased over time.”
What is the most beautiful place in Yemen?
“The island of Socotra, of course. It’s an island of magic and solitude. It’s another world. A few years ago, I flew directly from Abu Dhabi, and when I arrived, I felt as if I had stepped into an imaginary world—an island with huge sand dunes, deep canyons, picturesque wadis, and small, isolated villages.”
“The island has unique vegetation, and the most fascinating of them is the Dragon’s Blood tree. These trees are simply stunning. They look as if they’re growing upside down, like giant umbrellas. Their red resin is used for medicines, dyes, and woodworking. I camped there, sometimes in nature reserves, sometimes in small villages, and sometimes right by the beach.”
It’s one of the safest places in the world for tourists, and I felt completely free there. There are massive sand dunes, endless pristine beaches, and crystal-clear turquoise waters where you can see the seabed. Every trip there feels like traveling back to an era when the world was simpler. There’s no luxury tourism there; everything is basic.
The hotels are very modest, and transportation is limited. But that’s precisely what makes Socotra so special. It’s a place where time seems to have stopped. The nature, the people, the silence—all of it creates an experience that’s impossible to forget. I would return there again and again.”
What Do the Yemenis Think About Israel?
David also shared his impressions from conversations he had with locals in Yemen about Israel, a topic that intrigued him greatly.
“In southern Yemen, attitudes toward Israel are complex,” he explained. “There’s more curiosity than hatred. When I spoke with locals, I felt there was a significant gap between what they hear in the media and what they actually know about Israel. They don’t fully understand all the details, but it’s clear that, for them, there’s a difference between Israel as a state and the concept of Jews in general.”
“When speaking about Yemenite Jews, there’s a sense of nostalgia or a certain respect, perhaps because of the shared history. But when Israel is mentioned, the attitude changes, especially among the younger generation, who are more influenced by anti-Israeli propaganda. They often see us as enemies or as participants in international conspiracies.”
“However,” David emphasized, “this isn’t blind hatred. There are also people who say they want to know more, to hear firsthand accounts. For them, Israel is a distant and fascinating place, not just a political symbol. It’s not like in other parts of the Arab world, where hatred burns much more intensely.
“It’s a mix of ignorance, propaganda, and curiosity. In the end, there are people you can talk to, but it requires a lot of caution and an understanding of the local political and cultural context.”
“Hadhramaut, located in southeastern Yemen, is renowned for its ancient mud-brick skyscrapers and historical significance as a center for the frankincense and myrrh trade. Its unique architecture, including multi-story clay buildings, remains a symbol of Yemen’s cultural heritage despite ongoing conflict.”
“Yemen, a country where courage and stubbornness sometimes mix with wisdom, can move mountains and even people. But when they blend with ignorance, corruption, and extreme conservatism — disasters occur.
“The Yemenis are not foolish, but their society is steeped in religious brainwashing and rigid social structures. Marriages between communities are considered an almost impossible task, and racism is based on place of residence and community origin.”
“The attitude toward the Saudi and Emirati occupiers ranges from resentment (‘Let them leave, and we’ll solve our problems ourselves’) to gratitude for the personal security they provide. The attitude toward the Houthis is similarly mixed: on the one hand, they bring pride to Yemen and provide a certain level of security, but on the other hand, they are extreme and fanatical, have destroyed infrastructure, and prohibit freedom of expression.”
“Hadhramaut continues to preserve its identity and remains a significant cultural and economic center. Its cities, with their distinctive clay architecture, have earned global recognition. Sayun, the region’s capital, serves as a key gateway, accessible mainly via flights from Cairo, Aden, or Sayun itself. The city offers a rare glimpse into Yemen’s enduring spirit, with family-run museums, unique jewelry shops, and vibrant local markets.”
This post was originally published on here
