At a Vietnamese coffee shop a ‘drink saved our business’
James Huynh flicked on a blowtorch and toasted the top of an egg coffee until it was golden brown. He handed the cup to his wife, Vicky Huynh, who placed it on the counter. The tip of an ice cube poked out of the thick, creamy foam made from condensed milk whipped with egg yolk. Vicky used a straw to nudge it back into the dark coffee underneath.“This drink saved our business,” Vicky said, tapping the edge of the cup with the straw. When the Huynhs first opened Café Mollie in 2021, it was a boba store that also served a menu of standard coffee drinks like lattes, as well as one Vietnamese coffee drink. The shop had a great initial turnout, but over the next year and a half, Café Mollie struggled. “I think it kind of fell flat because we didn’t really have an identity,” Vicky said. “We weren’t special.” The Huynhs went into debt to sustain the business. They borrowed money from family members. “We were losing so much money every day,” Vicky said. Need a break? Play the USA TODAY Daily Crossword Puzzle.It got to the point where they were several months behind on rent. The stress of balancing the business with caring for their three children, ages 13, 10 and 3, had become overwhelming and the couple found themselves arguing often. “So we were like, let’s just take the family on a trip to Seattle, the capital of coffee,” Vicky said. They visited six or seven coffee shops and left feeling inspired. They realized they needed to change the concept of Café Mollie or accept that they’d have to close. The answer turned out to be right in front of them. They shortened their menu by a third and made Vietnamese coffee the star.Bringing Vietnamese coffee culture to PhoenixCafé Mollie’s first step in transitioning into a Vietnamese coffee house was introducing egg coffee. The drink’s signature whipped egg topping was invented during milk shortages caused by Vietnam’s war for independence from France during the 1940s. The drink was a hit, giving James and Vicky the confidence to play with their menu more. They started serving Vietnamese coffee topped with cream flavored with ube, a lightly fragrant root vegetable popular in Southeast Asian cuisines, and pandan, a tropical bush whose leaves create a flavor Vicky described as “vanilla and fresh cut grass.” The foundation for all the drinks is classic Vietnamese coffee made with dark roast drip coffee and condensed milk. The only change they made was to substitute Arabica beans for Robusta beans to give the coffee a slightly lighter and less bitter flavor.Despite the alteration, some customers still complained about the Vietnamese coffee, saying that it was too strong and had too much ice, much to Vicky’s frustration. In Vietnam, drinking coffee is a leisurely activity, so the ice has time to melt into the drink and soften it. “You would spend hours at the coffee shop,” Vicky said. “So you kind of wait for the ice to melt and then you shake it up and it emulsifies with the drink.”Vicky and James decided to keep the Vietnamese coffee’s original recipe, but as a compromise, Café Mollie also serves a drink called the Saigon Latte, which is made with fresh milk, which makes it lighter.Their experiment paid off. On any given Sunday, all the seats in the small café are full, with patrons spilling outside into the courtyard, soaking up sun with colorful drinks in hand.And though Café Mollie is now profitable, the Huynhs continue to tinker with the menu, creating a rotating list of seasonal items like a maple hojicha. Vicky also recently finalized the designs for a line of cactus-decorated paper cups for the café. “I want to treat this business like a new boyfriend,” Vicky said, laughing. “We’re always trying to impress our customers.”A tribute to her motherCafé Mollie’s success has deep, personal meaning for Vicky. Her family immigrated to the U.S. as refugees from the Vietnam War when she was 7. Stories of her mother’s tea stand were the few memories of their life in Vietnam that her mother chose to share, perhaps, Vicky hypothesized, because of trauma from the war. The family ran a small tea-processing business, buying fresh tea leaves, cooking them in a giant wok, drying them out and then selling the tea at the local wet market. “She’d put me on her bike and then we’d go to the wet market and pick out green tea and jasmine, and she’d drop me off at school,” Vicky said. Before opening Café Mollie, Vicky was a cosmetologist specializing in brows. But she always knew she wanted to open a coffee and tea shop because of her mother. “It’s like a calling,” Vicky said. “She’s my hero.”How to visit Café MollieCafé Mollie offers indoor and outdoor seating as well as WiFi. In addition to coffee, matcha and tea, it also serves a menu of banh mi sandwiches.Hours: Monday to Friday, 7 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.Price range: Drinks range from $4 – $7.Details: 6031 N. 16th St., Suite 5, Phoenix. 602-612-2313. @cafemollie on Instagram.A delicious quest for Sichuan food:Seeking comfort in a new city, I went on a search for malatang and found more than soupReach the reporter at [email protected]. Follow@reia_reports on Instagram.