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If you’ve never solo backpacked South America as a woman from the United States, you should know the reactions you receive are varied at best.
In the US, mixed depictions of the global south float around the cultural zeitgeist. But few are as consistently present as our image of South America. As a result, the American public’s perception of what it looks like to visit this vast array of unique, beautiful and interesting countries, such as Chile, has become a far cry from what most would experience.
On the Approach
Chile is home to deserts, mountains, beaches, rainforests, tundra, islands, the tallest skyscraper in South America, and some of the best stargazing (and empanadas) in the entire world. This country is truly one of a kind. And like most nations, it is in a state of change.
In 2022, members of the Chilean Constitutional Convention proposed one of the most progressive constitutions in the world. It advocated for further recognition and rights for their prominent indigenous population, as well as substantial LGBTQ+ protections.
There was a second proposal in 2023, which was also rejected. The constitutional reform process has since concluded without producing a new constitution. While neither proposal passed, their existence is proof of the modernity, empathy and strength of the Chilean people. These are all attributes reflected in my experience as a guest in their country.
But somehow, it wasn’t the admirable traits knocking about my brain as the plane took off. Instead, I heard the echo of someone else’s imparted anxiety, telling me this place was “too dangerous” and I “had no idea what it would really be like.”
People who had never been anywhere on this continent told me that all my research about this wonderful place, where kind, beautiful people go about their everyday lives, could not possibly be correct. Unfortunately, as I descended over the sharp, rocky mountains that guard Santiago, I found I had started to believe them.
Nerves on Arrival
Deplaning and navigating a new country on minimal sleep in a new language already induces plenty of anxiety, even without questions like “Am I ok? Is this ok? Are we going to be ok?” pestering the back of your mind.
Luckily, I never land somewhere without a plan to get from the airport to my hostel. Even if it’s a simple one like “the taxi stand before you exit to the lobby has decent prices and is easy to use. Show them your hostel’s address and pay up front.”
With disheveled hair, dark circles under my eyes, and more than a little trepidation in my expression, my backpack and I found our way from customs to the long row of taxi cab stands. Honestly, I couldn’t have missed them if I’d tried.
Representatives hollered greetings like carnival barkers, advertising prices, deals and discounts that were largely lost on my jetlag-addled brain. Operating on autopilot, I gravitated to the most persistent voice. It was that of an older gentleman with kind eyes and a fleece company vest.
Taxi Cab Wisdom
Santiago, Chile. Photo by Maggi Richard.
The representative took one look at me and (not unkindly, but certainly with humor) asked: “Is it your first time in Santiago?”
I answered with my very best “sí”. He followed up with, “Is it your first time in South America?”
I had hoped it wouldn’t be so obvious, but I had no choice but to answer yes again.
He laughed. “Welcome! Where are you headed?” I showed him my hostel address, paid, and took the driver’s ticket. As parting advice, he warned me against holding my phone on the street (something I would be told twice more that day).
Instead of a goodbye, he offered me the most profound wisdom I have ever experienced at 8:30 am. “Welcome to Santiago. Do not worry, you are not alone in the world.”
Now the only thing in my head was those words.
Of course, I’m not alone. The world is full of people, mostly kind ones, willing to help a stranger filled with anxiety and exhaustion. Even one who carries around false stereotypes about their home.
Moving Forward
Photo by Maggi Richard.
During my stay in a land as resilient and varied as its landscape, I encountered ice-laden geysers 15,000 feet above sea level, poured my sweat into the sands of the Valley of Death, floated in high-salinity natural wave pools and breathed in the oaky sweet air of ancient vineyards.
Graffiti graced nearly every building in Santiago. A reminder to visitors of the progress its citizens are fighting for, while proudly showcasing modern subway systems, parks, indigenous foods and fine art. An incredible example of progress, innovation and the balance of change, Chile is not to be overlooked or underestimated.
The picture of this nation that had been painted for me could not have been further from the truth. My preparation, reading, and research guided the foundation upon which I built my own opinion.
Are there areas you should stay out of, and extra safety measures you should take? As always, yes. Is this country filled with criminals and fraught with danger? Absolutely not. Even as a white American woman, making her way by herself.
When I solo travel, I am often asked: “Aren’t you scared? Isn’t it lonely?”
While the honest response varies from day to day, the overarching truth was made clear to me in that singular moment with the man running the taxi stand at the Santiago airport.
I travel alone precisely to remind myself that I am not.
If You Go
Getting There: Fly into Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport (SCL) in Santiago. Direct flights are available from several major U.S. cities. Search fares via CheapOAir.
Getting Around: Santiago has a modern and extensive metro system. Visit the official Metro de Santiago site for maps and fare information. For getting between cities or exploring regions like the Atacama or Patagonia, car rental is a practical option. Browse the best deals on Discover Cars.
Visa and Entry: Use the official Chile Travel site to verify visa requirements, especially if you plan to travel to Rapa Nui (Easter Island), as entry rules may differ from the mainland. U.S. citizens do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days but will receive a Tourist Card upon arrival that must be returned on departure.
Where to Stay: Browse hostels and hotels in Santiago on Booking.com or TripAdvisor. For a first-time visit, the Providencia and Lastarria neighborhoods offer a good base with access to transit, restaurants, and cultural sites.
Travel Insurance: Recommended for all international travel. Compare plans via Squaremouth or SafetyWing.
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Author Bio: Margaret Richard is an artistic scientist, traveler, and writer. She holds a B.S. in Mechanical Engineering with experience in Human-Centered Engineering research, but remains a dedicated student of the humanities and the arts. Her writing focuses on the connections between technical and creative fields, often through the lens of solo travel and adventure.
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