What it’s like to travel as a woman in Saudi Arabia
By Nicole BrewerSaudi Arabia’s historic treasures were long hidden behind a practically insurmountable barrier to international visitors, especially women travellers.But obstacles to accessing the conservative country have eased over the past few years thanks to a series of reforms.The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia now offers e-visas to travellers, even women visiting solo, and its controversial ban on women driving has been lifted.READ MORE: One thing you should do before checking your luggageNicole Brewer is pictured in Saudi Arabia. (Renee Evans via CNN Newsource)Today, women travelling to Saudi Arabia do not need a male companion, and are not required to dress any more restrictively than what would be deemed “modest.”Living in nearby Qatar for the last three years, I have crossed the border to Saudi a few times, and on each occasion, I see a change in the behaviour of women, who are becoming freer and more independent.Why India is the top place to travel alone in 2025Saudi Arabia is a stunning country full of natural wonders and sights that have not been open to the public for long, allowing visitors to experience truly unique places that aren’t overrun with tourists. Yet.By now, I have finally seen marvels such as UNESCO World Heritage site Hegra, Jeddah’s beautiful old town, and Al-Ahsa Oasis, the world’s largest oasis.READ MORE: Japan vs Europe? Where Aussies are travelling to in the next few monthsSaudi Arabia’s capital and main financial hub Riyadh is known for its heavy traffic.Didier Marti/Moment RF/Getty Images via CNN (Didier Marti/Moment RF/Getty Images via CNN)I have also been amazed by the welcoming manner of Saudi Arabian locals, their interest in visitors, and openness toward strangers.This serves as a reminder that whatever you might think of a country’s politics, it’s the local people who really matter.Still, as with visiting any foreign country, there are a few things to be considered before booking your trip, and that goes double for female travellers.Here’s everything you need to know about what it’s like to travel to Saudi Arabia as a woman.Dress codeWomen, and men, are advised to respect local customs and dress modestly, covering shoulders and wearing shorts or skirts down to below the knee, while travelling to any Islamic country.But while destinations like Dubai in the United Arab Emirates may have developed a more relaxed approach to international visitors, Saudi Arabia is still a little more conservative.There is no need for women travellers to cover their hair, but they are advised to dress modestly.There is no need for women travellers to cover their hair, but they are advised to dress modestly. (Getty)Paula Jensch, a German Events Planner living in Qatar visited Riyadh for work and leisure in summer 2024, and says she found herself packing differently to other trips.”The packing process was more mindful of having decent clothing, making sure nothing too tight or revealing and if wearing leggings, to be sure to pack an oversized shirt,” she says, explaining that she was informed by her company’s human resources department that “foreigners wearing abayas was culturally appropriate.””But for the younger generation of women trying to break traditions and norms, they advised me not to,” Jensch adds.”As it would just make it harder for them to break free. So, while I did pack abayas (all-encompassing loose robes), I barely ever used them.”The Saudi Arabian Tourism Board advises that there are separate rules in place for visiting religious sites, such as mosques, where women are asked to cover their hair, and remove shoes.I found this guidance to be appropriate for larger and more modern cities, such as Riyadh or Jeddah, where people may be more open-minded and accustomed to outside influences.READ MORE: The ‘active holiday’ trend that’s on the rise among Aussies in 2025But when travelling into the countryside, visiting villages and encountering people who may well have never seen a tourist, dressing more modestly might make for a more comfortable experience.Besides, wearing a loose abaya over some skimpier clothes is a great way to cope with the heat.Converging line viewpoint of local Saudis walking through illuminated plaza, an historical landmark located in Qasr al-Hukm District. (Getty)Moving aroundA road trip truly is one of the best ways to explore this vast country – women in Saudi Arabia have been permitted to drive since June 2018.The infrastructure around driving is very good, with long straight roads, regular service stops, and clear signage, on main roads in both Arabic and English.A road trip or group tour is a great way to explore. (Getty)But motor into the cities, and you need nerves of steel, with various driving rules and laws seemingly ignored by local drivers, and signage confusing.I am not normally a timid driver, but I often ended up driving around in a haze of adrenaline, trying to figure out whether there were indeed any rules I should adhere to.Ubers are an easy alternative when making your way around Saudi Arabian cities.But caution is sometimes advised, with users reporting that Uber’s own app sometimes advises against taking certain cars due to low driver ratings or poor condition of the vehicle.Cars for hire are also available for those planning to self drive.For longer drives across the country, if not self-driving, travellers can hire private English-speaking drivers, or join the many tours available.Safety factorFemale travellers are generally treated with respect in Saudi Arabia.The US State Department repeatedly issues warnings on travelling to the southern borders, due to the war with Yemen, but all other advice is relatively straightforward.Visitors should always be vigilant, especially when travelling solo.Nicole Brewer, an English language teacher, freelance writer and content creator at I Luv 2 Globe Trot, visited Jeddah and AlUla with a female friend in the spring of 2023.”We both felt safe there,” Brewer, from the US, told CNN.”People were welcoming to us, (and) we didn’t encounter any issues or problems. I would travel to Saudi again and would not have a problem going solo next time.”Visitors should always be vigilant, especially when travelling solo. (Getty)But however safe you might feel, it’s important not to let common sense go out the window.Jensch encountered few problems during her trip to Riyadh, but advises travellers to always be mindful, as you would any major city.That includes “being mindful of our belongings in public places, making sure not to leave your phones or laptops behind.”Smarttraveller’s advice for Australians is: “We continue to advise exercise a high degree of caution in Saudi Arabia. Higher levels apply in some areas.”Elevated view above blurred motion of cars traveling on important north-south axis through the city, date palm trees dividing each direction. (Getty)Women-only toursOne of the biggest changes that has occurred across Saudi Arabia in recent years is that there are noticeably a lot more women working in public-facing jobs.Travellers can find female tour guides, drivers and even scuba diving instructors wherever they go.For those who prefer to be amongst other women, most tour operators offer women-only tours, with female guides accompanying the group.Nourah Bassam Al-Meaiweed, a female tour guide for Fokharia Luxury Tours told CNN: “We are committed to providing exceptional tourism experiences for women. Our team includes highly qualified female tour guides who ensure safe, enjoyable, and tailored tours for female travellers.”Whether you are a woman alone or a group of women, self-driving or joining a tour, Saudi Arabia is as safe as any country, and probably a lot more welcoming.”I’d say, that travelling to the region isn’t as scary as some seem to think,” says Brewer. “I’ve been well respected as an American travelling and (also) living in the region.”As long as you are respectful to people and the culture, you will be fine.”
